As our trip progresses, I'm finding it
harder to find time to write this blog. Since my last post we have
spent time in three large but very different cities – Washington,
which is full of American national pride, history and museums; New
York which is just chaos & grime; and Chicago, which a clean &
tidy architectural showpiece.
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The Capitol from Pennsylvania Av, Washington |
Coincidentally, the accommodation we
had in each city characterized the cities themselves. We had a very
comfortable and stylish B&B in Washington – more like an
apartment, as the owner was away – from which we were able to walk
or take the Metro to sights and museums. Despite rain on a couple of
the days there, we were able to take a bus orientation tour, visit
the Capitol and the very impressive Library of Congress and several
of the many Smithsonian museums. Washington, unlike New York and
Chicago, has no skyscrapers, as, we were informed, no building may be
taller than the Freedom statue atop the Capitol.
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The Magnificent Library of Congress, Jefferson Building, Washington |
From Washington we trained it to New
York, a 4 hour trip getting brief glimpses of Wilmington, Baltimore
and Philadelphia on the way.
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Jon at the UN General Assembly, New York |
Our accommodation in New York was a
shared apartment booked through AirBnB. We shared it with other
visitors, the owner living elsewhere. While it was basically sound
and well located (29th St near Penn Station & not too far
from Times Square), the cleanliness, and maintenance could have been
better. Exactly like New York city!
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Cable Tramway beside the Queensboro (59th St) Bridge, New York |
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Lower Manhattan from the ferry |
We spent our three day revisit to
New York taking a ferry ride to Staten Island; visiting the UN
headquarters; we stumbled across the cable car to Roosevelt Island
next to the Queensboro (59th St) Bridge which was quite a
gem; browsed at Bloomingdales and FAO Schwarz toyshop; Jon went to
the Intrepid Air & Space museum while Penny found a quilt &
patchwork shop close to our apartment; and we took several rides on
the Metro buses culminating in a trip up to & walk across Central
Park on our final day there. It was lucky we allowed ourselves plenty
of time that day, as there was a half marathon with 1000's of runners
in Central Park, and a street parade of Spanish American culture,
both of which added to crowds and diverted bus routes!
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Penny showing our 29th St Apartment - ground floor window! |
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Viewliner car on 'Lakeshore Limited' train to Chicago |
We got back to
our apartment, collected our luggage and trundled it up to Penn
Station to claim our berth on the 'Viewliner' single deck sleeper on
the Lakeshore Limited overnight train past a succession of huge
bridges over the Hudson River, though Albany, Syracuse, Buffalo,
Cleveland to Chicago.
On arrival in Chicago we took a short
taxi ride to the hotel that I had booked on hotels.com – The
Buckingham Athletic Club: it was medium priced and fairly centrally
located, so we really didn't know what to expect. It turned out to be
a gem! Four star quality, on the 40th floor in a very
modern building overlooking the very neat, architecturally marvellous
downtown Chicago. Our stay in Chicago was planned mainly for us to
link up with the train across to San Francisco, and we had not really
done any preparation on what to expect or what to see or do there, so
we wandered around a bit at first, and stumbled on a booth selling
tickets to the local hop-on-off bus tour, of which we partook.
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From our hotel room, Chicago, north toward Lake Michigan |
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The Willis Tower (R) - 110 Storeys, tallest in N America |
There
are SO many magnificent buildings in Chicago. We did the obligatory
tourist thing and went to the 103rd floor of the Willis
Tower (formerly Sears Tower, highest building in North America –
they've got to have a superlative!), and walked along beside the
Chicago River, the flow of which was reversed years ago (by building
a canal to the Mississippi R system) to reduce the pollution of Lake
Michigan. The one anomaly in the neatness and cleanliness of Chicago
is the 'Loop' – an overhead railway system that runs in a
rectangular circuit directly above some of the city streets. Built in
the 1890s, supported by rusting riveted steel columns and beams,
served by narrow stairways and wooden platforms, the system runs what
seems to be a fairly efficient service using trains of short
stainless steel cars. It just looks so out of place in an otherwise
modern and tidy city!
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More Chicago buildings and sculpture |
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Looking down on Chicago - the Loop train running above the city streets |
So after only two nights in Chicago, it
was back to Union Station for the 2pm California Zephyr train to San
Francisco. Unfortunately, due to a faulty dining car, the 2pm
departure stretched out to 5.50pm. The train is made up of some
double deck coach cars, very comfortable double deck 'Superliner'
sleeping cars (though not as spacious as the 'Viewliner' cars from
New York), and dining and observation cars (also both double deck).
So we eventually settled into our tiny top deck roomette for the 2
night 2 day trip. The meals have been excellent, and it has also been
interesting conversing with other passengers and hearing the variety
of accents and idiom.
I am writing this post off line on the
train near the Nebraska/Colorado border – the train is now 5 hours
late, and running at a slow speed due to high winds. So we might get
an even longer ride than 50 hours planned! We crossed the Mississippi
River late last night – missed seeing it in daylight due to late
running, but we saw in anyway – and have passed some interesting
and pretty farming country this morning. Out the window are huge
cattle feed lots, silos, and a background of dust, blown up by the
strong (and cold when I hopped out last stop) wind.
As the day has moved on, we have now
crossed the continental divide west of Denver. Great views, and now 7
hours behind the timetable.
When you read this it will be an
indication that we finally made it to San Francisco, as we do not
have internet access on the train.
Count of US States visited: 27
... and we made it to SF! 54 hours on the train, arrived 5 hours late. But all OK.